Outaouais by Motorcycle: Six Days on the Chemins d’eau Route

There are regions you think you know. And then there’s the Outaouais, which always seems to find a way to surprise me all over again.

I went back this summer, from July 15 to 20, to ride the Chemins d’eau, the very first scenic tourist route in the Outaouais. A 273-kilometre route that follows two rivers: the Ottawa River and the Gatineau River. You start out on Highway 148, travel through the Petite Nation and Gatineau all the way to the Pontiac, then halfway through, you head north along the Gatineau River to discover the Collines. The concept is simple: follow the blue signs with the canoeist on them, and let the river do the rest.

I was excited to hit the road. I have a real soft spot for this region, and every time I visit, it impresses me. This time, I was coming at it from a fresh perspective, with a Bunkcamp motorcycle trailer equipped with a fold-down bed… and Julie, a Chicks and Machines contributor, because we also had a shoot to do. An experienced rider and true motorcycle enthusiast. Six days on the road with a woman like her? That’s already half the fun.

Montebello: The Perfect Starting Point

Our journey began around lunchtime at Bistro Montebello. A family-style menu combining local products with pub-style cuisine, with a great reputation for wood-fired pizza. Welcoming, delicious, and the perfect way to kick off a road trip.

A few steps away is ChocoMotive. And that’s one of the things that’s great about Montebello: everything is within walking distance. Shops, restaurants, things to see… you park once and walk everywhere.

ChocoMotive isn’t just a chocolate shop. It’s also an Économusée. We enjoyed a chocolate tasting hosted by Jessica De Guille, Director of Operations. Delicious chocolates made with a creative approach, while respecting the purity and integrity of the product.

Everything is certified organic and fair trade, and the company highlights local and Indigenous products. They even have a small museum that explains where chocolate comes from, from the field all the way to the finished product.

Two minutes farther, we reached the Manoir-Papineau National Historic Site. And this was a major highlight of the trip.

The visit exceeded our expectations by far. A passionate and engaging guide, a fascinating piece of our history, all presented in an enchanting setting: the seigneurial estate of Louis-Joseph Papineau. For a little while, we truly felt like we were stepping into Papineau’s world.

Late afternoon at Fairmont Le Château Montebello. The largest log cabin-style hotel in the world: 210 rooms, more than 40 activities on site, and cuisine inspired by regional products. Drinks, followed by an all-you-can-eat BBQ dinner overlooking the water. A magical experience for both the eyes and the taste buds. Safe to say, our first day in the Outaouais was nothing short of magical.

For the night, we switched things up completely: Marina de Montebello, right in the heart of the village, in vanlife mode with the Bunkcamp trailer. Renovated in 2021, the marina accommodates 94 boats with its new floating docks and breakwater. But what interested me was that it also welcomes up to 30 campers. Wi-Fi, water, ice, washrooms, showers, septic dump station. Everything you need, within walking distance of the shops.

Wine at the château, sleeping in the Bunkcamp trailer. That’s exactly the kind of contrast I love.

Chelsea: Forests, Bikes and the Vibe of the Collines

Early check-out, followed by a morning ride. This was the part I had been looking forward to.

The roads in the Outaouais are beautiful. Between the water and the bucolic landscapes, it’s pretty much perfect for riding. The weather was ideal, the sun was shining, the light hitting our faces, the fresh country air… there was nothing left to do but ride.

Destination: Chelsea. This is where the route leaves the Ottawa River and heads north along the Gatineau River, and the landscape changes with it: the hills close in and the forest takes over.

We loved the concept at Olivia Bistro-Boutique on Old Chelsea Road. A complete, quick, but above all healthy menu: gourmet salads, soft tacos, kombucha, smoothies and local products. Everything is prepared and served in an original, vibrant space. A great lunch break during a day of riding.

In the afternoon, we swapped the motorcycles for bikes with Nomades du Parc. Their shop is located at the entrance to Gatineau Park, in the heart of Old Chelsea, giving access to 360 km² of forest. They rent equipment year-round and offer guided experiences.

About 12 kilometres to the top of Gatineau Park, 25 km round trip. Wide forest trails and a breathtaking view once you reach the top.

E-bikes are magical. You’re still pedalling, let’s be clear, you’re working. But you get a little boost on the climbs. The result? You can ride 25 km without constantly fighting the hills, and you still have enough energy at the top to enjoy the view instead of gasping for air. A peaceful moment in the middle of nature.

That evening, we stumbled right into Après-Parc, the Nomades’ weekly Thursday night event held throughout the summer. Road biking to Champlain Lookout via Fortune Parkway, mountain biking for a 1.5-hour ride, or a 5- or 10-km trail run. Then everyone gathers on the terrace until 10 p.m. Bar, food, DJ, outdoor enthusiasts everywhere. Great atmosphere.

And for the night: Lofts du Village. A huge wow. A modern, beautifully decorated space where you immediately feel at home. We would have gladly stayed more than one night. In fact, the village is so packed with activities that you could easily spend three days there without getting bored.

Nordik Spa-Village: My Favourite Place to Unwind

7:30 a.m., empty spa, perfect light. We had an hour and a half to film our content before opening to the public, and Alexandre Brault, Brand Manager, welcomed us.

Nordik Spa Village is the largest spa in North America: 10 outdoor pools, 9 saunas, indoor and outdoor relaxation areas, a restaurant, a lounge and a Biergarden with terraces.

My favourite: the saltwater pools. A first for me. Floating weightlessly in warm water is an incredibly relaxing experience. There are only two places like this in America.

Nordik is absolutely worth a visit. It’s a village dedicated to relaxation and rest, and everything is designed to help you leave your stress behind and come back to life.

The Motorcycles: Our Road Companions

We were lucky enough to ride three CFMOTO motorcycles on this road trip, courtesy of CFMOTO Canada: the 675NK, the 450SS and the 450CL-C. We were spoiled, not only by the roads, but by the machines themselves.

The 675NK is a 675 cc three-cylinder producing 95 horsepower while weighing just 189 kg. Quick, connected, with a sound that’s hard to describe… you have to hear it. The 450SS uses the 449 cc twin-cylinder engine: 50 horsepower, around 370 lb, playful and lightweight. And the 450CL-C uses the same engine in cruiser form, tuned more for torque than high revs, with a low seat.

Three completely different personalities on the same road. That’s also what makes a road trip interesting.

Heading to the Pontiac, the Outaouais’ Wild West

After Nordik, we had two hours of riding west. And that’s where the trip took a turn.

The Ottawa River appears and disappears on your left, sometimes as wide as a lake, sometimes hidden behind a strip of trees. The fields open up. Villages pass by with their English names: Quyon, Shawville, Campbell’s Bay, Bryson… because we’re entering the Pontiac, the part of the Outaouais locals call the Wild West. Barns replace condos, distances between gas stations get longer, and the farther west you ride, the more the forest closes in around the road.

We ended the day at Wildwood Nature Escape, on the Coulonge River. It’s a campground, but with the comfort of domes and cabins. Each unit sits on a 30 × 30-foot platform with a BBQ, fire pit and parking, and the sites are well spaced out for privacy.

The site is completely off-grid. Truly off-grid. They provide sheets and pillows, but you bring your own blanket or sleeping bag. There’s no garbage collection either: whatever you bring in, you take back out. Shared facilities include showers, flush toilets, a wood-fired sauna and a cold plunge. And there’s a 100-step staircase through the forest leading down to the river.

Our dinner was delivered right to the site: meal kits from Vignoble le Petit Chariot Rouge.

A perfect moment to disconnect and reconnect with nature.

Rafting Momentum: Adrenaline in a Safe Environment

The next day, we headed to Rafting Momentum in Bryson, on the Ottawa River.

A young, dynamic team that absolutely lives and breathes rafting. We got the VIP experience and joined a staff day: we went down the river with just the guides. It was perfect.

Beautiful rapids, adrenaline and a few unexpected swims. But what really stood out to me was how safety-focused they are. They take care of you, explain everything properly before you head out, and you can tell that nothing is left to chance. Pure adrenaline, in a safe environment.

The Ottawa River’s waves are world-class, and every rapid is tackled at full intensity. The all-inclusive experience offers customizable intensity levels, from family-friendly to extreme, including cliff jumping and river surfing. This isn’t just rafting; it’s a full-day adventure. Philippe Ouellette, the General Manager, runs it with a crew that knows exactly what they’re doing.

Julie and I had an absolute blast.

We stayed overnight on site at Appartement du Pavillon, at the Momentum base: 90 practically untouched acres, two floors, a large balcony, a wood stove and huge windows. And this is where the fun continues after the descent, with a BBQ at the campsite, music and a campfire. You come back from the river, dry off, and the evening continues with the people you just spent the day with.

The Red Bridge: 150 Metres of History

Next stop: Plage du Pont blanc in Mansfield-et-Pontefract. A public site brought back to life by the community while respecting its roots: a park, a beach, and a rental kiosk offering paddleboards, canoes, kayaks and bikes.

And just a few minutes away, there’s another bridge. The red one.

The Félix-Gabriel-Marchand Bridge, which locals simply call the Red Bridge, has spanned the Coulonge River since 1898. It was built entirely from pine by Augustus Brown of Beachburg, Ontario, and originally connected logging camps to the village of Fort-Coulonge. At approximately 150 metres long, it’s the longest covered bridge in Quebec and is designated a historic monument.

What touches me most about its history is that it nearly disappeared more than once. Threatened with demolition in the 1950s and 1960s, then shifted several metres by a log jam in 1979… and every time, the local community stepped in to save it. The 1963 mobilization is even considered the very first citizen protest in Quebec aimed at preserving covered bridges.

During the day, you admire it. At night, it lights up, and since its latest restoration, you can even change the colour of its lighting through a mobile app.

And we crossed it. By motorcycle, over the wooden planks, through the dimly lit wooden tunnel, with the light suddenly appearing again at the other end. It’s one-way and just over four metres wide, so you slow down and take your time.

To finish the day, we went axe throwing with Aventure Héliante, with instructors guiding and coaching us right by the water. Nobody won; we just threw axes for fun. Then dinner at J&A Bowers, a family-friendly resto-bar just steps from the beach, known for its two-sauce poutine.

Coulonge Falls: The Grand Finale

Last day already.

Parc Aventure des Chutes Coulonge welcomes you into a centuries-old white pine forest. The full package includes three adventures: an obstacle course, giant ziplines over the canyon and a via ferrata.

Via ferrata means “iron path” in Latin. It’s a 600-metre route along the rocky cliff overlooking the rushing Coulonge River, somewhere between climbing and hiking. It’s accessible to both beginners and experts, and if the route becomes too challenging, several exit points are available along the way.

But even if extreme adventures aren’t your thing, come anyway. The beauty of the site alone is worth the trip. You can simply walk around, admire the falls and explore the pine forest… it’s beautiful.

Is the Outaouais Worth Visiting by Motorcycle?

I’m often asked this question when I come back from a region. The answer here is simple: yes. In fact, it’s one of the easiest playgrounds in Quebec to organize a motorcycle trip around.

The distances are short, never more than two hours between stops. Highway 148 follows the water for most of the route. And there’s enough variety that no one in a group will get bored: the one who wants a spa, the one who wants rapids and the one who just wants to ride will all find something they love. You can also take different roads to make your days longer. That’s the beauty of the Outaouais.

One last tip: the Chemins d’eau route lets you build your own itinerary based on your interests and the time you have. There are seven tourist information stops along the route, including one in Wakefield, one in Mansfield-et-Pontefract and one in Montebello, as well as five riverside stops with interpretive panels, in Quyon, Thurso, Portage-du-Fort and elsewhere. The complete map is available online at tourismeoutaouais.com/cheminsdeau.

Accommodations That Made the Trip Memorable

• Marina de Montebello – Montebello (camping and vanlife)
• Fairmont Le Château Montebello – Montebello
• Lofts du Village – Chelsea
• Wildwood Nature Escape – Coulonge River (off-grid domes)
• Appartement du Pavillon, Rafting Momentum – Bryson
• Auberge Spruceholme – Fort-Coulonge
• Plage du Pont blanc – Mansfield-et-Pontefract (vanlife)

Thank You, Outaouais

This trip reminded me of something: the Outaouais isn’t just one region, but several. And each territory offers its own adventure, from the Petite Nation, welcoming you with its chocolate, manor and château, to the Collines, waking you up with their forests, cycling and village atmosphere, and the Pontiac, bringing you back to the essentials, without cell service, with a fire and a river setting the pace of your day for you.

The best part is that all these contrasts fit together perfectly.

Thank you to Annie Léveillée from Tourisme Outaouais, who accompanied us along the way with a generosity and pride in her region that set the tone for the entire trip. Thank you to CFMOTO Canada for the motorcycles. Thank you to the MRCs of Collines-de-l’Outaouais, Petite Nation and Pontiac, and to all the partners who welcomed us and opened their doors to us.

And thank you to Julie. Hitting the road with another female rider changes everything. No one needs to explain why we stop, why we leave again, or why we’re laughing inside our helmets. We have the same map in our heads.

The Outaouais is best discovered with your eyes wide open. And on a motorcycle, it reveals itself in the most beautiful way.

Cyn